There are many different methods and styles that work for loading horses and you just have to get the job done as efficiently as possible. And the need is to have one good method for effective loading. A little of this and a little of that usually doesn't add up to effective success.
Let me start by summarizing the main methods that are effective and humane enough for use. It's probably not too much of a simplification to view these as three basic strategies.
The negative reinforcement method Proponents of this method describe the strategy as quietly and methodically making the outside of the trailer more negative or scary than the inside, without making it so scary that the horse resists in a big way. The idea is to basically position the horse behind the trailer and quietly pester with mildly annoying stimuli--for example, gently tapping a stick on the butt or a limb, shaking a plastic grocery bag on a stick behind the horse--then letting up on the pestering with each forward movement. The pressure is titrated so as to stay below the explosive resistance state, and eventually the horse takes the path of least resistance into the trailer. This method requires patience to keep the level of pestering below the punitive level and good timing to recognize and reward forward movement or intention by release of pressure (a pause in the pestering). You also need to understand and respect the difference between negative reinforcement and punishment. The downside of this method is that things can quickly go wrong. For example, as the horse moves forward human nature often seems to be to increase the pressure to maintain the forward momentum, rather than to release the pressure as a reward for forward movement. With enthusiasm that the horse is finally moving into the trailer, the mistake is made to increase the pace or rate of the pestering action to punitive or explosive levels. So instead of, "go--go--good, thank you," the horse gets the message, "go--go--go-go-go-GO-GO-GO-ouch-bad horse." Also, with a potential weapon in hand, frustration can quickly lead to inadvertent aggression toward the horse.
The positive enticement and reinforcement method The strategy is all carrot and no stick, with the goal of teaching the horse that the whole process is positive and that there's nothing to fear. You basically ignore any undesirable behavior and put all your resources into enticing and rewarding forward movement, with no pulling, pushing, or pestering. For some horses gentle guiding alongside or simply lifting a foot onto the ramp or step up while rewarding can be helpful. With each increment of forward movement or observed intention there is a pause to reward. With any undesirable responses, for example, backing away, pawing, or kicking out, just quietly pause and start again. I have two frustrations with this method. Everyone involved does have to be on board with the technique. Well-meaning helpers often rush in with a "negative" at just the wrong moment. The second frustrating aspect of this method is that some otherwise good horse owners find it beneath their dignity or an incorrect tact to bribe a horse onto a trailer with a grain bucket. So they tend to far overestimate the time it takes and give up too soon.
The "raccoon trap maneuver" This brute strength "starting gate push" involves a push from behind, followed by closing them in as fast as you can, and it requires courage, strength, and skill, because it can be quite dangerous. While it can get the job done in a pinch, it probably does not make things better for the next time. For fearful or confused horses, it's likely adding to their future fear.
In any setting, especially a veterinary setting, we should be aiming for the most humane and best positive reinforcement method, which is, in my opinion, for all horses and eventually for most owners an all-positive approach to gaining compliance with patients, whether loading in the trailer or abiding a treatment. The only form of negative reinforcement that I also like to have handy for some horses is a stout soft cotton rope to bring from either side behind to ever-so-gently guide the horse, while enticing/rewarding forward movement
LOADING TIPS
Sue McDonnell, PhD, Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist offers some tips to consider before attempting loading difficult horses:
Loading environment:
- Make sure it's a quiet area;
- Light up the inside of the trailer;
- Try to have a continuous substrate (for example, a long mat extending onto the ground and up the ramp to the vehicle, best if similar to the vehicle's floor mat);
- Park the trailer on good, stable footing (no puddles or debris);
- Use a sturdy ramp; and
- A step-up is often easier than a ramp.
Personnel:
- As few people as possible, two to three maximum; and
- Calm, confident people who can relax and enjoy the loading as if there is nothing else to do that day.
Positive vs. Punitive:
- Aim for all positive, zero punitive actions.
- Maintain slack on lead so horse is at liberty to back if he wishes;
- Entice him with highly palatable grain, rewarding each increment of desired movement;
- No yelling, hitting, pushing, or pulling;
- For some horses have no one or no pressure from behind;
- For some horses a reassuring person alongside can help; and
- Do not rush the placement of butt bar or door closure.
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